dalmatikes
By Thomas P.

The sun was burning our faces and we enjoyed our amazing ride as we were entering slowly at central Dalmatia, which extends over an area of 60 nautical miles from Ploce to Trogir, and occupies the area covering the northern latitude from 43 degrees to 43 degrees and 30 minutes and east longitude 16 degrees to 17 degrees and 20 minutes.

Dalmatian coasts

The entire central Dalmatia belongs to the province of Split and includes the islands of Vis, Pekleni, Hvar, Brac and Solta. It is a very valuable region with wonderful places, some of which are very popular and should definitely include them in our holiday program.

Vis

Our bow was heading Stoncica Cape at the northeastern end of the island Vis. Even if this island is not a first line destination we got really enthusiastic with unexpectedly beautiful images. There are many beautiful beaches and wonderful bays. It is definitely worth staying here for a few days discovering unique corners. It is said that if you ask a Croatian what are the best three islands within it will definitely include Vis.
Its name comes from the ancient times, when in 390 BC Dionysius of Syracuse founded the first Greek colony, which he named "Issa. The main village is at the western side of the bay Viska Luka and is called Vis. The second big village, which is a port too, is located on a large bay on the west side of the island and is called Komiza. It is a very beautiful and picturesque fishing village with houses literally in the sea, resembling something from Venice.

Dalmatian coasts

The compass was showing 287 degrees and quickly we covered 16 miles that separated us from the northeast island’s lighthouse. Behind the cape there is a great oblong bay with the same name, which stretches for half a mile. At the internal a stunning beach with green waters is formed, the western edge of which is full of reeds.
We tied up our Rib on the small wooden pier and through the small path we entered the reeds, where one of the most famous taverns of the entire region is really hidden. It is famous for its traditional dishes, which are prepared with a lot of humor by the especially characteristic owner. The unique recipes preserved from generation to generation for many years and the wide variety of flavors have made it famous. The big cellar with wines made there, fresh meat from the farm located just behind the tavern and baked in a large iron stove, fresh fish and of course the unforgettable variety of grilled vegetables, directly from the garden grilled, guarantee unforgotten flavors.

A short distance from the bay Stoncica there is the large bay that hosts the village Vis. We were entering with slow speed admiring the wonderful two and three -storey houses that are built along the coast.
We headed to the northwest side, where the ancient Greek colony was. With continuous maneuvers we could pass among the numerous tourist boats and we moored on the small pier.

Dalmatian coasts

In the next morning we started exploring the west side of the island, where there is the large open bay that hosts the second large settlement, Komiza. Cruising close to the northern coast we quickly covered 10 miles that divided us and we entered slowly the port located in the northeast of the bay. On the southwest side there is a large jetty which protects from the force of the south winds mainly. The old stone houses are really in the sea, with their small balconies hanging on the air creating an amazing spectacle.

The entire bay is filled with boats anchored in double and triple rows. In the internal part of the bay there are many shops in a row beneath the shade of the palm trees promising a delicious breakfast.

After taking many photos we started traveling towards the island Bisevo, located at 14 nm southwest of Komiza. With only 12 residents and many beautiful spots, it is ideal for a day trip from Vis. We reached the northeastern peninsula on the east side of which the small port lies. Five to six low houses over a beautiful beach with green waters constitute the "village" of the island. Bisevo is famous for the famous Blue Grotto or otherwise Modra Spiljia. On the western side of the island there is one of the most beautiful beaches, the coast Porat, where there is a tavern that serves fresh fish and excellent local wine Plavac.

Dalmatian coasts

Having several hours ahead of us until dark, we returned to Vis in order to circumnavigate the southern coasts. U. Stiniva particularly fascinated us. It is a small beach that looks like a hideout, since in order to enter therein you must pass through a split of tall impressive rocks. Our short stay here, where there is a small house that serves coffee and breakfast, was enough for us to be truly memorable.

PAKLENI ISLANDS

In the next day, after enjoying our swimming at various beaches of Vis, around noon our bow headed the islands Pakleni, located northeast just seven nautical miles. It is a group of small islands in series with the main feature the intense lacy coastline as well as the plenty of safe anchorages for the night. They are uninhabited and characterized by low green hills with rocky shores. They are very popular destinations and many tourist boats come here for isolation and calm days.

The largest island of the group is Sv. Klement, where there are many bays because of the diverse morphology of the coast. The most beautiful bays are Tarsce at south and Vinogradisce at southeast. At the northeast end of the island, at the bay Palmizana, there is the homonymous Aci marina with 190 berths, offering water, electricity, bathrooms, two restaurants, cafés and a grocery.
It is only 2 miles far from the town Hvar, the port of which is extremely crowded.

Dalmatian coasts

Therefore, Aci marina Palmizana is a very good suggestion to anchor the RIB, from where the taxi-boat departing every hour will take you to the busy but amazing town of Hvar.

Hvar

It is one of the largest islands of the Adriatic Sea, with many interesting places. It is called the 'Croatian Madeira "and attracts many tourists every year, making it one of the most popular destinations on the Dalmatian coast. There are many ports and big villages on the island, but the most attractive one is the old town, located at the southwest end.

Dalmatian coasts

It is a beautiful historic town with lovely buildings, cobblestone streets and magnificent squares where many people gather here. The prohibition of cars on the streets is increasing further its charm. The approaching of boats is so large that is impossible to find a berth to moor.

As we were approaching the port, up on the hill and just above the old town, the imposing castle of the 16th century, known as Fortica, stands. This castle was protecting the town from conquerors.
It went through many phases of construction, since the time of Byzantine Justinian, to complete its current form by the Venetians.

The optimum situation in which is maintained in combination with the excellent location make it one of the most beautiful castles of the whole of Dalmatia.
The view from the castle to the port and Pakleni islands is stunning.

In the small museum of the castle there is evidence found in the sea area around Hvar, with many ancient Greek amphorae dating from the 3rd century BC. There is no doubt that the island's name comes from the Greek word "Lighthouse", the colony founded in the 4th century BC Greeks from the Aegean and mostly from the island called Paros.

Dalmatian coasts

Hvar attractions:
  • The central square Sv. Stijepana is covering an area of 4.500 square meters, and is one of the oldest and largest in Dalmatia. One side looks at the sea, where there is a small marina with local boats called «Mandrac», from the Greek word "Mandraki", while the other three sides are surrounded by very important buildings.
  • The Cathedral of St Stephen dominates at the eastern side of the square. It is Renaissance-Baroque style and built in the 16th-17th century.
  • The large well in the center of the square was built in 1520.
  • On the south side of the square there is the Arsenal, built in 1611 and is considered as the most beautiful of Dalmatia. In 1612, on the first floor was built a theater, one of the oldest in Europe, where today performances take place.
  • Dalmatian coasts

  • The Greek Orthodox monastery on the west side of the harbor, the many churches and old houses on the cobbled streets.
  • The Fortica castle stands imposing over the old town and is kept in excellent condition.

Croatian archaeologists claim that” the very great cultural heritage brought by the Greeks must be protected and preserved for future generations"
After spending two wonderful days in the old town we took the Rib and went to Stari Grad. Here the ancient Greek town Pharos was founded, which was the heart of the island. Today is a very beautiful town with beautiful stone houses and beautiful neighborhoods, thus no gathering so many tourists as the old town of Hvar attracts.

Central Dalmatia: Ribbing information
  • Vis: On the island there isn’t a well equipped marina. If you are at the north side of the island, you’d better prefer to anchorage on the northwest side of the bay that hosts the port, where there is a gas station.
  • Palkeni-Hvar: At Pakleni Islands there are many bays, especially on the south side. You’d better prefer Aci marina Palmizana on Pakleni islands, from where the taxi-boats, departing every hour, take you to the old town of Hvar. This distance is less than 2 nm.
  •  On Hvar there is Aci marina in Vrboska, on the north side of the island. Gas stations are in the old town Hvar, in Vrboska and Jelsa.